Man is a creature of his own habits.. The reality check! - Ethiopian Journey - Part 14.

By the third day morning the spirits were down and tempers were fraying. People were snapping at each other and we could cut the tension with a butter knife.  By that time, we had mastered our way in and around the hotel. We found a place where we could make phone calls. But International calls were exorbitant and costed around 14 birr (70 rupees) per minute. At that time, it was quite expensive. We had an old couple who had come to Ethiopia post their retirement. The husband coached his wife. He told her what to speak, and what points to cover during her rapid fire international phone call. And she had one minute time to do it.

The lady was overcome by the situation. She blurted out something and may be the connection was not good. She took four minutes to finish what she had to say.  This somehow triggered her husband. He started shouting at her “you made me spend, 60 birr. This was we will not be able to save anything”. Overcome by emotions the old lady burst out crying. It was heart rendering to see the her cry so profusely. But the man was unmoved, he had spent 60 birr and that was too much for him.

I had read that the most selfish and the most self centered only venture out of their comfort zone to go to foreign countries and become NRIs. The main objective is to scrooge and save as much money as possible.  I was seeing a live demonstration and didn’t like it one bit. I took a vow. I will save but will not be stingy!

By the third afternoon people were starving. There was a local Indian restaurant called ‘Sangam’ in Addis Ababa. But it was in Bole road and we have to take a cab. We were told that cab drivers fleece the tourist and charge around 100 birr for one journey. So that is 200 birr just for the journey and we were also told that a nice Indian meal at the Sangam would set us back by at least 500 birr. 700 birr for a meal sounded exorbitant for all, including me.

There was a knock on the door. It was Vasavi, Bala Krishna’s wife. She was down for the count. She said ‘Padmakka, I don’t like this place at all. It is too cold. We can’t go out. I simply hate the food. No rice, no dal, no sambhar and no curd. I feel miserable” Overcome by the situation, she wept uncontrollably. She said “I will tell Bala. I want to go home”.

Padma was touched. She could not bear her pain and anguish. She consoled Vasavi. She told her to be brave. “Nothing to panic” Padma added “we are all with you. Look at us. We have kids. They don’t like it either. They are surviving on bread and jam. And on biscuits”. Seeing the logic of the situation, Vasavi brightened up.

Me and Bala swung into action. We hunted for hotels and restaurants that serve rice. There were many restaurants but they all served either Ethiopian food or European food. We had problem even explaining what rice was or how it looked.  

The present generation have it good. They can just google rice and show the hotel owner what is rice and how it looked. But we were in 2002 and it now appears like pre-historic time!

After a good two hours, WE FOUND A CHINESE HOTEL. The owner was sour and non-communicative. He showed no surprise or happiness when we almost jumped in joy when he said “yes we have rice’. We rushed back to the hotel and four of our family, Vasavi and Bala, Dr. Srinivas Inguva and T.N. Murthy rushed to the restaurant.

After an agonizing wait of forty minutes our RICE arrived. There was a very watery looking tomato paste/Puree/tomato curry as a side dish. The rice was not rice. It was a watery goo. The tomato curry was something of a culinary puzzle. But boy, we were as excited as Ali Baba when he saw the treasure in the cave. We fell on the rice and tomato goo and finished it off in a gusto. The cost was 12 birr. At that price it was a steal. We explained the issue and told the sour owner that the rice needed to be more dry and that he better spice up his curry. He gave a grudging nod. We hoped that we would get better service the next time around. 

First Day in Addis Ababa, at Ethiopian Hotel - 8th November 2002 - Ethiopian Journey - Part 12.

Ethiopian Christians going to the Church for Prayers 

I got up early in the morning. I peeped out of the window. There was a lot of fog and it had enveloped the city in a tight unforgiving hug. There was a nip in the air. I was shivering in the cold. I went up to the terrace of the hotel. The view was breath taking. There were rolling hills all around. It was picture post card perfect! I shot the scenes on my video camera.

Gingerly I stepped out of the hotel but stayed under the watchful eye of the hotel security. I could see hordes of Ethiopians silently moving in their long white flowing dresses. They had the most solemn and serious faces I had ever seen. I was puzzled. They were shuffling along slowly. It looks as if a holy procession was moving along. It was so surreal. The effect was accentuated by the nip in the air and the cold weather. I had to pinch myself to get out of the feeling of awe. 

I enquired “where are they going?”. The guard replied in halting English “They go, Church”. Then it struck me, Ethiopia is a Christian country surrounded by Muslim nations in the horn of Africa.  Readers might be wondering as why this area is called as the horn? If you were to look at the African map the eastern part of Africa has a part jutting out. This part looks like a horn of Rhinoceros and that is why it is called the horn of Africa.  Djibouti, Eritrea, Ethiopia, and Somalia, are the countries that constitute the horn of Africa.

Ethiopians are devout Christians. Three  out of four Ethiopians are Christians and follow the orthodox form of Christianity. Ethiopia still uses the old Julian calendar. They celebrate Christmas on January 7th, and not on December 25th! The Christmas celebration in the Ethiopian Orthodox Church is called Ganna. “Malkam, Malkam Addis Ganna” they  would greet each other. It means welcome welcome new Christmas!

Western and European depiction of Jesus Christ 

Ethiopian Depiction of Jesus Christ 

The depiction of Jesus Christ is what we had been taught by the Europeans and the westerners. As Ethiopians have never been colonized their depiction of the same biblical epic and Jesus Christ is refreshingly different. I was coming to terms with one of the most ancient civilization in the world. Ethiopia is one of the few countries mentioned in the Bible, the Koran, Homer’s Odyssey, and many other ancient books.

Smiling Ethiopian Boy 

The name “Ethiopia” comes from the Greek words aitho and ops, which together mean “Sun burnt face.” This was how the ancient Greeks referred to the dark-skinned people of Eastern Africa. Ethiopia is one of the oldest nations in the world, having been founded in 980 B.C. Axum, in Ethiopia, is famous as a claimant to the final resting place of the Ark of the Covenant, the chest containing the ten commandments God gave to Moses. It is of tremendous pride to the Ethiopians that the final resting place of the Ark of Covenant is amongst them!

Breakfast done, all the men and the contract holders assembled in the reception area. It was almost ten in the morning and there was no action. The clock struck twelve and still no one came from the Ministry of Education. We were getting bored. We dispersed for lunch. After the experience with the last night dinner, we had bread and jam for lunch. But Indians being Indians we were not liking the bland and sweet taste. We wanted our tongues to get tickled and the palate to be satiated with the hot and spicy Indian curies and dals. But alas we were thousands of kilometres from India!

The representative from the ministry arrived at 3.00 p.m. We accosted him anxiously. He was unflustered. He appeared as cool as a cucumber. We were slowly getting used to the ways of the Ethiopians. He had this almost Zen like calmness. He drawled “How are you all, how is Ethiopia treating you?” One of us responded with a little irritation and lot of anxiety “We are here for the entire day. We would like to go our respective stations. We would be losing our salary too!” The practicality of people whose main reason to come to Ethiopia – to save money and send it back to India was kicking in. We were rearing to work and earn our pay! Itching for action. May be the result of living life in a fast lane.

The Ethiopian was genuinely surprised. Then his face brightened up “oh aha” he exclaimed “that is your major worry. Don’t you worry about your salary. Salary would be given from Today.” We came to know that our tickets to Bahirdar would take some more time. He promised to come back in a day or two.         

I birr Note (front Side)

We felt lost. Now the excuse of going early to our universities was snatched from our hands. We were resigned to our fate. There were many rumours floating about. We heard stories of how tourists being robbed and assaulted. But staying in the hotel was not an option. I took a 100 dollars note and went out to an authorized exchange centre and got around 855 birr. A back of envelope calculation showed that one birr was worth approximately six Indian rupees. That was the mantra that we chanted for the next four years. We would buy in birr and immediately multiply it with 5 (a 5 factor being more convenient than a 6 factor).

I birr Note (back Side)

I would buy 5 kgs of rice and Padma would ask “how much”. I would reply “10 Birr”. She would immediately say 50 rupees and that meant price of rice is Rs 10 per kg. Talk of the NRI ways of living and surviving in faraway places! 

The New Flower beckons (763) – Ethiopian Journey – Part 11

Our air travel took us five hours and we covered 3837 kilometers. The time difference between India and Ethiopia is 2.5 hours and this time difference was to create lot of confusion but more of that later.  

There were tin roofs everywhere. Somehow the movie Fiddler on the roof came to my mind. Addis Ababa at the first look looked very much like the landscape that we see when we take off from Mumbai International airport.

Map showing the size of Africa 

Most of us have very limited and sketchy information about Africa. Africa is the cradle of the world civilizations. It has the most diverse bio diversity in the world. Diverse in races, people, languages, flora and fauna. Africa is the world's second largest and second most populous continent. Africa’s land mass is 30.3 million kilometers² (11.7 million square miles) including adjacent islands.

Africa covers 6% of earth’s total surface area and 20.4% of its total land area. From the most northerly point, Ras Ben Sakka in Tunisia, to the most southern point, Cape Agulhas in South Africa, the distance is approximately 8,000 kilometers (5,000 miles). And from Cap Vert, Senegal, the western most point, to Ras Hafun in Somalia, the eastern most point, the distance is approximately 7,400 kilometres (4,600 miles).

We need to travel 10 hours continuous from the northern tip to the southern tip and nine hours from western tip to eastern tip by an aeroplane before we leave the continent and see the sea. That is how big Africa is! When it is 3.45 a.m in Cape Verde, the western most point in Africa it is already 8.45 a.m in Seychelles the eastern most point.

Africa consists 57 countries and Algeria at 23,81,741 square Kilometres is the biggest country and at 55 square Kilometres French Southern and Antarctic Lands is the smallest.

Street View of Addis Ababa, 2002 

Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia, my home for the next four years is more than three (3) million years old. Ethiopia shares borders with Eritrea to the north and to the northeast is Djibouti which is the nearest sea link for Ethiopia, Somalia to the east, Sudan and South Sudan to the west, and Kenya to the south. After Eritrea got independence, Ethiopia got completely landlocked. Ethiopia is the most populous land locked country in the world.

Ethiopia has a land size of 11,04,300 square Kilometres which is almost one third of India's land size. India’s land size is 32,87,263 square Kilometres. But whereas India’s population stood at 107.1 crores in 2001, Ethiopia’s population is tiny at only 6.85 crores. That is mind boggling, I/3 of India's  size but having only 1/16 of India’s population.

Ethiopia is not small by any standards.  It is the 26^th biggest country in the world by size and 10^th biggest in Africa. It is the 2^nd most populous country in Africa. Only Nigeria had more people than Ethiopia.

Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia has a land size of 527 square kilometers. It is 3rd highest capital in the world at an altitude of 2355 metres. The average highest temperature in Addis Ababa is 23 degrees centigrade and the lowest is 6 degrees centigrade. According to the October 1994 census the population was 21 lakh people.

Old Airport, Bole, Addis Ababa, 2002, within one year of our arrival a swanky new airport was opened 

It was almost 10.00 p.m. by the time we finished our inward formalities and stepped into the lobby of the airport which was old was very quaint in its looks. There were traditional Ethiopian Motifs everywhere – Huge murals depicting the coffee ceremony and of smiling Ethiopian faces. 

Ministry of Education, Addis Ababa, at Arat Kilo. 

But we were all tense and tired. Waiting to receive us was a representative from the Ministry of Education, Ethiopia. He was very polite and dropped us at the Ethiopia hotel which was at the intersection of Sudan Street and Yohanis Street and parallel to the Churchill Avenue.

Ethiopian Hotel, Near Churchill Avenue, Addis Ababa

We went to the restaurant and ordered the food. The first shock was on us. There was very little choice for vegetarians and no Indian food at all on offer. We ordered some chicken and some bread. The bread tasted different and the even the chicken was prepared differently. It had deep roasted in oil and there was no spice chilly or salt at all! Coming from a country that drowns all its dishes in ample salt, chilly, liberal doses of masala and spice that was the last straw. 

We had to leave the food almost untouched. Okay, we learnt the first lesson; eating food outside our own home is going to be a culinary adventure in itself! Addis Ababa was cold but the hotel room was cosy and comfortable. We got into our woolens and settled down. 

To go or Not to Go - That is the question - Ethiopian Journey - Post no - VIII

Then it happened! I received a call from Global placements in the month of September 2002.They informed me that I was selected and that I should send the passports of my family so that the Visa process can start.

As long as an important event is not forthcoming we are all relaxed. It is something that we anticipate but the event has not yet started. Once the event is eminent and close, there are butterflies in the stomach. There are worrying questions “what about my steady and regular job at CBIT. I am getting regular pay scales. I am well liked and adjusted to CBIT and its rules and regulations. Should I go to a place that gives a contract that too only for two years? What will happen if either the university or I don’t like each other? What will I do when I come back? Can I get a suitable job immediately? What about my children’s education”. My head was in a spin and my emotions and thoughts were wrung, knotted and tossed around just like clothes in a high speed washing machine.

My son Pranav Pratheek was seven years old and he was studying in Geetanjali Public school, a famous school located at Begumpet, Hyderabad. My daughter, Sai Sahithi was only two years old and she had not even gone to a preschool till that point of time.

My first port of call was Dr.Surendranath, my Brother-in-law and Pediatrician in our family. He laughed at our predicament and waved a green flag. He told us that all necessary vaccinations are done for Pranav and Sahithi. He said “why are you so worried? Haven’t I and Uma (Dr. M. Uma his wife and my elder sister) went to Yemen and spent four nice years. You should travel and learn”.

My father Sri M.C. Anjaneyulu and my mother Smt M. Hemalatha were pillars of strength. They encouraged and advised that we should go as a family. My Dad told me “Go and experience Ethiopia. You would get benefited immensely. There is so much to gain and you might not get another opportunity”.

My eldest sister Dr.M.Ramani and Eldest brother-in-law Dr.G.Venkatramana too were very supportive. They suggested that we carry a medical kit that will contain medicine for all common ailments. I remember my Sister Dr.M.Ramani telling me “you might not use many of the medicines that you carry and they are like insurance policies. It will give you peace of mind and you and Padma (my wife) will be relaxed mentally and will sleep well”.

My sister Dr.M.Ramani a well-known pathologist by profession, cautioned me and said that our entire family needs to take yellow fever vaccination. As yellow fever is prevalent in African countries, it is imperative that all visitors to African countries get themselves vaccinated for yellow fever.

My rock of Gibraltar was my wife M. Padmavathi, never complaining and always a cheerful lady. I tried telling her all the negative factors. Ethiopia is very far away, no telugu movies, no entertainment, primitive facilities, no friends, no Indian festivals, no Television, new place, we need to adjust, might not get good food, children education might suffer. But she was steadfast. All or nothing. All of us go or no one goes. I added dramatically “It is like taking a time machine and going back to the 50s. Like Hanumakonda or Ananthapur during the time of our parents”. But the rock would not Budge!

My final port of calling was Dr.P.Narayana Reddy, HOD of SMS, CBIT and my research guide. He laughed and said “why worry?  Go ahead. As far as your PhD is concerned I will help you in any way that you need. Just see to it that your quarterly progress reports of research being conducted are sent to Osmania University in time”.

I was more or less convinced but there were some lingering doubts. My father sensing my confusion asked me to meet his friend Mr.S.N.Kanchhal. Mr.Kanchhal was the Director, Indo African Industrial Consultants based at Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. He stayed in road no 10, Banjara Hills, Hyderabad and I visited him. He had come down to India from Ethiopia on his annual vacation. He told me that he and his wife have stayed in Ethiopia for years. They have a business that was doing extremely well.

He and his wife received me and were astonished to know that I was in quandary. He told me “What young man, why are you so worried?  Ethiopia is safe. Infact safer than India. Ethiopians love Indians. Addis Ababa where I stay has many Indians. Addis Ababa has an Indian school at Piazza. They follow the Indian CBSE school syllabus. Most Indian teachers register their children in the Indian school”.

He continued “You can coach your children at home and come to Addis Ababa and let them write their final examinations. Bahirdar is considered to be a very nice and lucky place. It is a dream destination for many Ethiopians themselves. The temperature is moderate; the university gives you all facilities. So I think that you should definitely go”. He thumped me on my shoulder and added jovially “Your Dad and me, we went to school barefoot. Your generation must have gone to school in a city bus. Later generations have gone to school in school buses, autos and cars. Voila, your two year old daughter will fly in an Aeroplane to write her kindergarten examinations”. I was awe struck at his wit and humour.

He cautioned me that Malaria is prevalent in Ethiopia and that I should take anti-malarial tablets. He also told me that the rice available in Ethiopia is of a varying quality and that it is not as fine as Indian rice. He asked me to take small quantities of Red Gram (Kandi Pappu), Tamarind and other Indian spices as they are not available in Ethiopia. He also advised me also to take a small pressure cooker. Jokingly he added “Better take some good Telugu and Hindi movie CDs. There is a paucity of Indian entertainment in Ethiopia”.

The die was cast. I have decided to travel to Ethiopia. There is no going back now.

Ethiopia - 13 months of sunshine - where yesterday, today and tomorrow merge seamlessly - Ethiopian Journey - Part VII

Ethiopian Highlands 

The next day morning, the Vice President’s words “the entire country is air conditioned” was ringing in my mind. “What did he mean?” I wondered.  I went to the easiest and most convenient person to ask questions – Google Matha (Mother). Google embraced me warmly and I deep dived. I was astonished at what Google was throwing at me.

I was interviewed for Bahirdar University and Bahirdar is a part of the Ethiopian highlands. They are a rugged mass of mountains , situated in the Horn region of Northeast Africa. They form the largest continuous area of its altitude in the continent, with little of its surface falling below 1500 metres (4,921 feet), while the highest mountain peak, Ras Dashen reaches a height of up to 4550 metres (14,928 feet).

The Ethiopian High lands are often called the Roof of Africa due to their height and large area.  Most of the Ethiopian Highlands are part of central and northern Ethiopia, and its northernmost portion reaches into Eritrea, a neighboring country.

Smiling Ethiopian holding Coffee beans 

In the southern parts of the Ethiopian Highlands once was located the Kingdom of Kaffa, a medieval early modern state, where from  the first coffee plant was exported to the Arabian peninsula . The land of the former kingdom is mountainous with stretches of forest. The land is very fertile, capable of three harvests a year. The term "coffee" is derived from the Arabic ‘qahwah’ and is traceable to Kaffa. The Latin name of coffee is Coffee Arabica as coffee was made popular by the Arabian merchants.

In the highlands, the air is cool and bracing in summer, and winters are very bleak. The mean range of temperature is between 15 to 25 °C (59 to 77 °F). The year may be divided into three seasons. Winter, or the cold season lasts from October to February. It is followed by a dry hot summer, which in the middle of June gives place to the rainy season. 

Bahirdar city promenade lined with palm trees and autos which are called Bajajs

Bahirdar University, Bahirdar is considered one of the holiest places in Ethiopia. Bahirdar or Bahardar is home to the starting point of the Nile River. And Nile as we all know is the longest river in the world. The Nile River starts in Lake Tana the largest lake in Ethiopia. The lake is so big that the town adjoining came to be called Bahardar (by the side of the sea). Lake Tana is so big that the Ethiopians thought it was a sea! Lake Tana has many small islands which have very old and holy monasteries. These are popularly called Lake Tana island monasteries.

Lake Tana the biggest lake in Ethiopia

Bahirdar is located approximately 578 km north-northwest of Addis Ababa, at an elevation of about 1,800 metres (5,906 feet) above sea level.  Bahirdar has a borderline tropical climate.  Afternoon temperatures are warm year round, and morning temperatures cool.  Temperatures vary a lot during the day and in the night. The highest average temperature is 28.8 Degrees centigrade and the lowest average temperature is 5 degrees centigrade. So that is what the Vice President meant when he said that the entire country is air conditioned!

Bahirdar is the third largest city in Ethiopia, after Addis Ababa and Dire Dawa. It is the capital of the Amhara region, inhabited by the Amhara people. Amharic is the official language of Ethiopia.

That was more than enough for me to get excited. Many get opportunity to go to USA but how many have the chance to visit one of the oldest countries in the world?  The oldest surviving skeleton of human man mankind, ‘The Lucy’ was found in Ethiopia.  Ethiopia has a long history and is fiercely independent. It was only colonized for a very short time by the Italians but the proud Ethiopians threw them out in a jiffy.

Addis Ababa,the new flower, capital of Ethiopia and the 3rd highest capital in the world

Ethiopia is considered as one of the most influential country in the Entire African continent and the Capital, Addis Ababa (meaning New Flower, I should say very romantically named!) is often called the capital of Africa and is the headquarters of the African Union. It is said that all the African countries have atleast one of three colours of the Ethiopian Flag, green, yellow and red.  This is to show respect and acknowledge the contributions made by Ethiopia to the African cause and development.