Bale Rejim Rejim Tse’gurua Setyo - Ethiopian Journey - Blog Post - no 32

The problem with the pink house was that it was not the way we expected. The kitchen was not yet given to us and Padma was forced to cook in the drawing room. And it was quite tough as we did not have the adequate utensils. We decided to go to the main market.

We came out and took the blue and white mini bus. The fare was 55 santims (Rs 2.75). But there was a problem with the mini buses. They would be full of students of PEDA and inevitably there would be at least two or three of my own students. The students would be overcome by awe and shyness but would giggle and stare at Padma. Immediately they would whisper “bale rejim rejim tse’gurua setyo” (thanks are due to Elefachew Mossisa for making me get the term and the spelling correct).

We thought it was quite offensive. But any how there was nothing that we could say or do, we could only grin and bear with it. We got off at the market and went on a shopping spree.

We bought a kerosene stove, kitchen utensils, plastic buckets, mugs and then kerosene. It was refreshing to buy kerosene without a ration card. Then the trouble started. All the earlier shops where we bought were big and the shopkeepers  were polite and would speak a smattering of English. 

The interior shops were manned by Ethiopians who would not speak English. Padma and me started showing them what we wanted and then started buying them in quantities that we wanted. We were getting zipped (over charged) but we had no other way.

And the crowd, they would rally around and imitate our voices and actions. It was a riot. The situation was so desperate that we wanted to give up. Then a voice spoke out “Sir, can I help?” and that too in English! I spun around violently. It was a sight just like seeing an oasis for a person who did not have a drop of water for many days! I gaped at the English speaking Angel!

The person who spoke was Tigist (unfortunately I don’t remember her full name). She was a Marketing Diploma student from PEDA and I was teaching her Sales and Marketing course. She quickly grasped the situation and swung into action. From then on the shopping was smooth as silk.

We would tell her what we wanted and show her the items and Tigist would ask, haggle and buy. I could see the difference. I started spending less and less. What we thought would take us hours got finished in a jiffy. I learnt the magical word “sintenum” (how much) and say ORRO nasally which meant ‘oh no” in a slightly annoyed way. Later I learnt to haggle and say “Habesha, Faranji yellam which meant I am a local and not a foreigner”.

We were feeling thirsty and wanted to have a tea or coffee. I had tea, Padma and Tigist had Avocado juice and it was a herculean task trying to stop Tigist from paying the bill. My extreme big built and the Ethiopian traditional respect to teachers finally made her accept my view point that I should be allowed to pay the bill.

Then the real drama started. Tigist started picking up all our bags! She effortlessly picked up bags weighing well over 20 – 25 kgs. At the same time, she looked expectantly at Padma. We did not understand what was happening.

I tried taking the bags but Tigist would not budge. I got rattled and asked “what is the issue, Tigist? Why are you not allowing me to carry the luggage?”. Tigist wailed “oh teacher, how can I let my teacher and that too a man to carry the bags. That is the work for the women folk”.

I was getting a flicker of an idea! I knew what was happening! In traditional Ethiopia, it is the women who carry the load and the man would saunter ahead and take-in the scenery. She thought it was her duty and was getting puzzled why I was so insistent.

I explained to Tigist that in India it is the man who carries the loads and that woman would walk happily behind and may be help with a small bag or two. But Tigist would not budge. She was adamant. It was a stalemate.

There was no getting around Tigist. The omnipresent crowd materialized. It was a scene from a bollywood movie. It was so dramatic and that too it was between a Faranji and a local Ethiopian girl. 

They must have thought that the Faranji was fighting or harassing the local girl, that too a university student! Some of the young men in the crowd I am sure would have started flexing their mental biceps. They were spoiling for a fight.  The situation was getting out of hand!

We started walking to the bus stand and someone suddenly blurted out “bale rejim rejim tse’gurua setyo”. That was absolutely the final straw. I looked at the crowd and yelled “why are you being so rude, why can’t you leave us alone?”

The crowd fell silent but Tigist was puzzled “why are you shouting at them sir?” I was upset but controlled myself and said “This has been happening all the time since we arrived. We know that foreigners are fair game but this is really too much”.  

Not Padma's Picture 

Tigist’s face broke into one of the most beautiful smile “bale rejim rejim tse’gurua setyo is not making fun sir. They are complimenting your wife. The phrase means lady with long hair. They simply love your wife’s dark black hair”.

Padma at that time had very long and luscious hair that would at least be 4 - 4.5 feet long. For Ethiopians who are used to seeing short and curly hair, long black hair would have appeared lovely and exotic. Not understanding the language can lead to so many problems. So after that whenever someone yelled “bale rejim rejim tse’gurua setyo”, I would grin and laugh but Padma somehow could never get used to all that extra attention. 

Bahirdar - By the side of the Sea - Ethiopian Journey - Post 16

Bahirdar City, Gojjam, Amhara region, Ethiopia 

By the time we settled down it was almost 6 p.m. We set out for a walk. It was cold. We had taken precautions and were wearing woollens. Ethiostar was in the heart of the city. Right in front of Ethiostar was the Amhara Parliament building. It was an imposing building with many beautiful statues on the front facade.

Very close to Ethiostar was POLY, the engineering division of Bahirdar University. PEDA, to whom I belong was around two kilometers away. Walking on the roads was a very pleasant experience. Not many people but lots of love birds. We quickly came back. Dr. Naidu, Associate Professor from the Mathematics Department had dropped in for a visit.

Dr. Naidu was a legend in Ethiopia. By 2002 he had already finished three contracts. He could speak Amharic quite well and was quite adapted to the local culture and customs. He would become our community elder – someone like Peddarayadu.

Addis Gedefaw, HOD Management Department 

The next day morning, we decided to take things into our own hands. Dr. T. N. Murthy, Dr. Srinivas Inguva and me headed out to PEDA. The way to PEDA was quite dusty and we had to take a short cut to reach the University. It was a nice stimulating half an hour walk. We made our way to the Management Department/Accounting department.  Dr. T. N. Murthy and I, met Addis Gedefaw, the Head of the Department. She received us very warmly. She said “You came in quite early. We were not expecting you for atleast another week”. She told us subject allocations will be done shortly and that she will inform us when they are finalized. She directed us to the admin department so that we could get our University identity cards and start working.

We came back to Ethiostar and headed for lunch. It was more of the same! All Ethiopian cooks appear to cook the same way. We ordered for rice and after lots of gesticulations and mime asked for  some tomato curry. One hour passed and we were not getting any food! Luckily for us Suresh dropped in and went to the kitchen to investigate. He came back and told us that there was only one cook who could prepare ‘Indian speciality of rice and tomato curry’. He has gone out and there was nobody else who could prepare our dishes!

We either have to wait or lump it! Out of desperation we ordered Inkulal curry (Omelette) and Avocado juice. Avocado juice was tasty and very filling. Pranav finished the Avocado juice and wolfed down the Omelette. Suresh was watching on with his mouth wide open in astonishment “Sir” he whispered in a low tone “that omelette had six country eggs! It was meant for the entire family. Do you think, he can digest it?”

I assured “I don’t think we need to worry. He washed it down with avocado juice”. Suresh was almost wailing “that is the problem sir. Avocado juice is very filling. And your son had an ample dose of both. Avocado juice is not like butter milk that will lighten the stomach. It will make it even more heavy”.  I started watching Pranav from the side of my eyes. He did not appear any worse for the wear. He was happiness personified.  

I went out and ordered thumb nail photos for university ID card. “Mister” the owner told me “come at 12 o'clock in the evening to collect your snaps”. My Blood Pressure shot up "what do you mean 12 clock in the night. I will definitely not come at 12 o'clock in the night to collect my snaps’. I could picture myself sliding and shuffling along fugitively, giving sneaky looks on all sides and collecting snaps dead in the night.

The owner was puzzled. He gave a quixotic look “Mister, I said, 12 o’clock in the evening" He glared at me.

I gave up. As I was returning from the photo shop, I saw a poster “13 months of sunshine and below, it was written, welcome to 1995!”. Then it struck me. Oh yes, Ethiopian calendar was seven years behind the English calendar that we follow.

I burst into our hotel room. My family was startled at my excitement. “is everything all right” Padma enquired anxiously “rocking, rocking” I assured her. “Nothing to worry. Do you know Ethiopia makes you younger? Now both of us are seven years younger, and we are back to 1995!”. I Looked at Pranav, gave him a-all-knowing wink and added “Pranav you are back in 1995, that will make you a seven-month old boy. Better behave yourself kiddo”

I and Padma walked out to the balcony and were admiring the scenery. Suddenly we heard loud shouts and then a steady wail coming from the hotel room. We rushed in ashen with fear. The scene inside stunned us. Pranav was seated in a chair and there was a 'cat who had all the cream' look on his face.

He looked smug and contented. On the bed was my two-year-old daughter Sahithi. She was  sobbing inconsolably. After lots of threats, inducements and cajoling, she stopped. We asked “Sahithi, what happened?”. Still sobbing she replied “Anna told me that all our ages go back by seven years. I am born in 2000. What will happen to me? I don’t even exist. Will police arrest me? Can I ever go back to India? If I had known that, this was going to happen, I would have stayed back with nannamma and tatagaru”. She was hurt and disgusted!   We kept a straight face with lot of effort. We dare not burst out in laughter. The poor girl was already in lot of trauma.

I went to the hotel receptionist and complained that the photo shop owner wanted me to come at 12 o' clock in the night. “Oh sir” he burst out. But he must have said 12 o'clock in the evening”. I was getting fed up. “what 12 o'clock in the evening?  how can you have 12 o'clock in the evening”?

The hotel receptionist explained to me “Sir, Ethiopia follows the sun as the criteria for setting the time, Unlike Europe where the day starts at 12 o'clock at the stroke of midnight, In Ethiopia time starts with the sunrise. So when the sunrises it is zero hour. So when it is European 7 o’clock in the morning it is 1 o'clock for us Ethiopians. So when it is 6 o'clock in the evening for Europeans it would be 12 o'clock in the evening for Ethiopians”.

“Oh boy” I said to myself “This really takes the cake. Now I have to struggle with three times. The Indian standard time which is 2.5 hours ahead of the European or GMT and also this new Ethiopian time”. I Sincerely hoped that I could manage so much complexity.

I brightened up and asked the hotel receptionist “I heard that there are thirteen months in a year in an Ethiopian calendar. That is nice. I can work for twelve months and get thirteen months’ salary”.

The receptionist gave me a strange look "oh, the thirteenth month is only a book adjustment. Those five or six days are only to bring the calendar back to normalcy” He gave a very broad and toothy smile “I assure you sir, you will only get twelve months’ salary”.  

To go or Not to Go - That is the question - Ethiopian Journey - Post no - VIII

Then it happened! I received a call from Global placements in the month of September 2002.They informed me that I was selected and that I should send the passports of my family so that the Visa process can start.

As long as an important event is not forthcoming we are all relaxed. It is something that we anticipate but the event has not yet started. Once the event is eminent and close, there are butterflies in the stomach. There are worrying questions “what about my steady and regular job at CBIT. I am getting regular pay scales. I am well liked and adjusted to CBIT and its rules and regulations. Should I go to a place that gives a contract that too only for two years? What will happen if either the university or I don’t like each other? What will I do when I come back? Can I get a suitable job immediately? What about my children’s education”. My head was in a spin and my emotions and thoughts were wrung, knotted and tossed around just like clothes in a high speed washing machine.

My son Pranav Pratheek was seven years old and he was studying in Geetanjali Public school, a famous school located at Begumpet, Hyderabad. My daughter, Sai Sahithi was only two years old and she had not even gone to a preschool till that point of time.

My first port of call was Dr.Surendranath, my Brother-in-law and Pediatrician in our family. He laughed at our predicament and waved a green flag. He told us that all necessary vaccinations are done for Pranav and Sahithi. He said “why are you so worried? Haven’t I and Uma (Dr. M. Uma his wife and my elder sister) went to Yemen and spent four nice years. You should travel and learn”.

My father Sri M.C. Anjaneyulu and my mother Smt M. Hemalatha were pillars of strength. They encouraged and advised that we should go as a family. My Dad told me “Go and experience Ethiopia. You would get benefited immensely. There is so much to gain and you might not get another opportunity”.

My eldest sister Dr.M.Ramani and Eldest brother-in-law Dr.G.Venkatramana too were very supportive. They suggested that we carry a medical kit that will contain medicine for all common ailments. I remember my Sister Dr.M.Ramani telling me “you might not use many of the medicines that you carry and they are like insurance policies. It will give you peace of mind and you and Padma (my wife) will be relaxed mentally and will sleep well”.

My sister Dr.M.Ramani a well-known pathologist by profession, cautioned me and said that our entire family needs to take yellow fever vaccination. As yellow fever is prevalent in African countries, it is imperative that all visitors to African countries get themselves vaccinated for yellow fever.

My rock of Gibraltar was my wife M. Padmavathi, never complaining and always a cheerful lady. I tried telling her all the negative factors. Ethiopia is very far away, no telugu movies, no entertainment, primitive facilities, no friends, no Indian festivals, no Television, new place, we need to adjust, might not get good food, children education might suffer. But she was steadfast. All or nothing. All of us go or no one goes. I added dramatically “It is like taking a time machine and going back to the 50s. Like Hanumakonda or Ananthapur during the time of our parents”. But the rock would not Budge!

My final port of calling was Dr.P.Narayana Reddy, HOD of SMS, CBIT and my research guide. He laughed and said “why worry?  Go ahead. As far as your PhD is concerned I will help you in any way that you need. Just see to it that your quarterly progress reports of research being conducted are sent to Osmania University in time”.

I was more or less convinced but there were some lingering doubts. My father sensing my confusion asked me to meet his friend Mr.S.N.Kanchhal. Mr.Kanchhal was the Director, Indo African Industrial Consultants based at Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. He stayed in road no 10, Banjara Hills, Hyderabad and I visited him. He had come down to India from Ethiopia on his annual vacation. He told me that he and his wife have stayed in Ethiopia for years. They have a business that was doing extremely well.

He and his wife received me and were astonished to know that I was in quandary. He told me “What young man, why are you so worried?  Ethiopia is safe. Infact safer than India. Ethiopians love Indians. Addis Ababa where I stay has many Indians. Addis Ababa has an Indian school at Piazza. They follow the Indian CBSE school syllabus. Most Indian teachers register their children in the Indian school”.

He continued “You can coach your children at home and come to Addis Ababa and let them write their final examinations. Bahirdar is considered to be a very nice and lucky place. It is a dream destination for many Ethiopians themselves. The temperature is moderate; the university gives you all facilities. So I think that you should definitely go”. He thumped me on my shoulder and added jovially “Your Dad and me, we went to school barefoot. Your generation must have gone to school in a city bus. Later generations have gone to school in school buses, autos and cars. Voila, your two year old daughter will fly in an Aeroplane to write her kindergarten examinations”. I was awe struck at his wit and humour.

He cautioned me that Malaria is prevalent in Ethiopia and that I should take anti-malarial tablets. He also told me that the rice available in Ethiopia is of a varying quality and that it is not as fine as Indian rice. He asked me to take small quantities of Red Gram (Kandi Pappu), Tamarind and other Indian spices as they are not available in Ethiopia. He also advised me also to take a small pressure cooker. Jokingly he added “Better take some good Telugu and Hindi movie CDs. There is a paucity of Indian entertainment in Ethiopia”.

The die was cast. I have decided to travel to Ethiopia. There is no going back now.